Risotto with Fresh Figs, Pancetta, and Shaved Parmigiano

Risotto is one of my all-time favorite things to make.  I love the versatility of the dish: once you’ve mastered the basic risotto, you can add whatever ingredients you’d like, based on what is in season or on what you aim to achieve with the final dish.   There are few things as comforting as a big plate of pumpkin risotto on a crisp fall night, but a spring risotto made with fresh peas and fava beans is equally delicious.

Here, I’m taking advantage of fresh figs, which come into season for a short period in the spring and again in the late summer and early fall.  Not only are figs an aesthetically striking fruit, their mild sweetness works well in a mostly savory dish like this risotto, balancing the salty pancetta and nutty parmigiano, and pairing well with the sweet and slightly tangy balsamic reduction.

In culinary school, we were taught the steps to make a perfectly creamy yet still fluid risotto – risotto all’onda (Italian for “wave”) – again and again, until we could practically recite them in our sleep: (1) Toasting, (2) Wine, (3) Cooking, (4) Rest, (5) Mantecatura.

The perfect risotto should be rich and creamy, but at the same time loose and flowing, like a wave.  The first and fifth steps are arguably the most essential in terms of achieving the perfect consistency for your risotto.  Also important is the type of rice used; Italians use “superfino” rice, a short-grain rice with a high starch content that releases starch in a very controlled way.  Carnaroli and Vialone tend to be the preferred rice varieties for making risotto in Italy, but Arborio is also used frequently and is much more readily available in the States than the others.

Toasting the rice before adding liquid allows each rice grain to absorb more of the initial fat (in this case, olive oil), which stabilizes the starches and creates a better consistency.  Wine can be added to give acidity to the dish, but is optional depending on how you want the final risotto to taste; likewise, risotto can be cooked using either water or stock, again based on the desired flavor.  I generally prefer to use water because it creates a more neutral base, which gives me greater freedom to flavor the final risotto how I want.  A good rule of thumb is that if you want your risotto to taste like chicken, use chicken stock.  If you don’t, use water.  Yes, stock will give your risotto more flavor, but think beforehand if it’s the flavor you want!

In the final step of making risotto – mantecatura (the English translation for the Italian verb “mantecare” is “to whisk”) – a fat is added, usually butter, and the rice is stirred vigorously so that it beats against the sides of the pan.  This helps to extract starches from the rice, which emulsify with the fats in the butter, creating a luxuriously creamy texture.

You will need:

• 2 cups short grain “superfino” rice (I used Carnaroli, but Arborio is a suitable substitute)
• ½ lb pancetta, diced
• ½ yellow onion, minced
• 3-4 fresh figs, quartered (I used Brown Turkey Figs, but any type will do)
• ½ cup dry white wine
• ½ cup good quality Aceto Balsamico di Modena
• 1 cup Parmigiano Reggiano, grated, plus more for shaving
• 6 Tbsp butter, cut into small cubes
• olive oil
• salt, pepper TT
• water, or stock 

Heat the olive oil in a pan with high sides over medium heat.  Add the minced onion and sweat, stirring frequently and being careful not to burn the onions.  On a separate burner, bring a large pot of water (or stock, if using) to a boil.

Add the dry rice to the oil and onions and toast, stirring frequently, until the edges of each grain of rice become translucent.  Add the wine, if using, and continue to stir until all of the alcohol has evaporated.

Ladle in just enough hot water (or stock) to cover the rice.  When the rice has absorbed nearly all of the liquid, add more liquid, ladle by ladle, and continue this process until the rice is fully cooked but still slightly Al Dente.

While the rice is cooking, render the pancetta over low heat until crisp.  Transfer to a plate lined with paper towels, and reserve until the risotto has finished cooking.  In a separate saucepan, bring the aceto balsamico to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer until it has reached a slightly syrupy texture.  The balsamic will continue to thicken as it cools, so stop cooking slightly before it has reached the desired consistency.

When the rice is fully cooked, remove from the heat, and allow the risotto to rest for a few minutes.  Add the butter and grated parmigiano and stir vigorously, slapping the rice against the sides of the pan to release its starches.  Season to taste with salt and pepper.  Mix in the crisped pancetta, and top with fresh figs, shaved parmigiano, and a drizzle of balsamic reduction.  Buon appetito!